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It's squash season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the blend of ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a wonderful balance of flavour. The biryani, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which give enhanced flavour to the strata of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week starts on early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and assemble everything on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Add the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until tender. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a separate dish and set aside (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, fry for a brief period, then stir in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and sauté for a minute. Turn down to a low heat, blend in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for several minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the temperature, cover and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then take off the stove.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the rice, then place it in a pot with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, put a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon half the vegetable curry, then layer with some the cooked grains. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the leftover rice. Finish with the rest of clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Hindi term "pickling style" refers to seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, asafoetida and nigella, but they're not used only in preserved foods. This mixture also features in various types of spiced dishes and stir-fries, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a mortar, roughly grind, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a large frying pan or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Pour 50ml liquid to the pot, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Add the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.